Color Reversal/Process E-6
A good description of the E6 specification can be found reposted here, in a (Word) document by Derek Watkins.
Some of the chemicals called for in E6 chemistry are NOT easy to find. Therefore, I recommend (and use myself) the following hybrid:
Use the standard B+W reversal developer as the first developer, and ECP chemistry for the rest. This saves mixing extra chemicals, and makes it so that you can use the same set of chemicals for both reversal and positive prints, which is very handy if you do both. I know that this is not "correct," and no doubt the official way is better, but in this case, the best is the enemy of the good. I leave it for you to decide! Meanwhile, it boils down to this:
|IN TOTAL DARKNESS!!!!|
|1. D-19 with Thiocyanate (2g/l)||6 min @37°C|
|2. ECP2 Stop bath (Kodak SB-14), or any black and white stop bath-- mix up a SEPARATE solution used only as a black and white stop bath IN TOTAL DARKNESS!!!!||1 min|
|IN NORMAL ROOM LIGHT|
|3. Reexposure -- passing the film end-to-end 6 inches from a 500W bulb seems adaquate||n/a|
|4. ECP2 Developer (Kodak SD-50)||3 min @36.7°C|
|5. water rinse||1 min|
|6. Ferricyanide Bleach (Kodak SR-27) -- The temperature is important, or it won't work!||5 min @37°C|
|7. water rinse -- a thorough rinse is important here!||1+ min|
|8. Fixer (Kodak F-35c or equivalent: must be a non-acid, non-hardening fixer!)||3-5 min|
|9. running water rinse||5 min|
Note: The specified temperatures are essential! The first developer time can be adjusted with temperature, but the color has to be as specified! Temperatures not specified are not critical; ideally, use something around 20°C or warmer (but not hot).
Please refer to to my guide to bucket processing for general intructions, that also appy here!